On a Sunday afternoon, take a blanket to sit on the massive grassy lawn or under the trees and watch the world go by. Monday nights mandate attendance at the historic Grayson Stadium, partly to see our minor league Sand Gnats team play baseball, but mostly for the dollar hot dogs and beers. SCAD grads have reinvented the gallery concept by creating hip spaces, like Le Snoot and Sicky Nar Nar, replete with loud graphics and exceptional branding.
We’re not too committed to the whole sports thing, but we sure do like tailgating. Every fall, dozens of actors get into the southern groove at the Savannah Film Festival. Savannahians start drooling at the mention of any of these sandwiches from Zunzi’s. It’s three hours long and if you’re sober by the end of it, then you’re doing something wrong.
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The streets of the Historic District are covered by natural archways made by the long branches of live oak trees, dripping with Spanish moss. Bars, restaurants, and shopping line the street, so we put on our white powdered wigs and get wild. When you step outside in the summer you wade through thick, sticky air. Bonaventure Cemetery, made famous by the cover art for the book, is actually a really beautiful place to walk around.
Savannah College of Art and Design started in the late ‘70s, did huge work restoring old buildings and creating jobs, and now boasts a student body of about 8,000. Their diversity creates this unusual mash-up of slow, old south mixed with young, creative energy and it just works. SCAD runs the show, of course, and features workshops, lectures, and eight days of nonstop films—student and award-winning. The celebs choose to hang at bars and eat (like normal people) at restaurants because we let them be. You have to love Paula Deen—or at least love to hate her. It’s a hole-in-the-wall, for sure, with a line going down the block, but when you get your enormous sandwich with extra “Shit Yeah! The fountain is dyed green, the beer is dyed green, and most people’s complete green ensembles are planned months in advance. Heading back from the Island is a detour filled with old cannons, trails to hidden bunkers, a walkway to the abandoned lighthouse, and an impressive fort—drawbridge still included.
So that’s roughly 8,000 pairs of thick black glasses, 4,000 mustaches (assuming its halvsies), and an overall hipster appearance sighted all around town. You also have to go to The Lady & Sons at least once just so you understand why tourists wait in line for hours to experience the warm buttery goodness that is southern-style cooking. Locally owned boutiques and big name retailers inhabit the restored historic buildings on Broughton Street, giving it an air of old fashioned sophistication. Fort Pulaski drew interest enough to be chosen as one of the locations in Robert Redford’s film “The Conspirator”.
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To make use of this reputation, there are tons of ghost tours throughout the city—trolley, hearse, or walking. The sun is out one second and then, before you can say “Mamma’s biscuits and gravy,” the temperature drops and your clothes are soaked right through. Unless you want to try knocking on one of the other mansion doors downtown, a tour through this one is as close as you’ll get.