Find sheltered belay spots if possible, and locate your hangout areas well away from vertical or slabby cliffs, or close underneath overhangs.14.Toproping through fixed anchors The sand and dirt in ropes can wear through metal, and repeated toproping or lowering through the rings or chains on a sport climb ruins the hardware.Slipping off the ends of rappel ropes is tragically common, even among very experienced climbers. If you fall in this position, you’ll likely be flipped upside down. Develop a “Spidey sense” about when a leg has moved across the line, and fix the problem immediately, even if you have to ruin your redpoint attempt to do so.7. Powers was seriously injured but is making an amazing recovery.8.
Never assume, however, that your partner will rappel instead of lower (see No. Dogs running free, trampling ropes, and begging for food negatively impact many climbers’ experience. If someone starts talking to you after you begin tying your knot, finish the knot beforeconversing. Make sure to check for sun damage (fading or crackling) and fraying. REAL LIFE: In 2009, a webbing rappel anchor failed at the Red River Gorge, killing two young climbers.18.Also, make sure a critter hasn’t chewed through the slings hidden behind a tree or rock. Clipping into belay anchors with just a daisy chain Daisies are great... They’re not designed to hold more than body weight, however, so they don’t belong in the belay system. When Hill—already a 5.13 climber at the time—weighted the rope at the top of a warm-up climb, her unfinished knot zipped through her harness. Hill says she got distracted by a conversation and forgot to finish the knot; a bulky pullover hid the error.2. REAL LIFE: One famous double-check mistake was Lynn Hill’s accident in Buoux, France, in 1989.(A “hard” lead fall may generate 2,600 pounds of force.) Similarly, some old-school bolts from the 1980s or earlier will still hold falls, but many won’t.
Finally, give a second look to homemade hangers, which can develop hairline fractures where they bend.
In climbing, as in life, bad experiences are the foundation of good judgment. Careless belaying There are many ways to screw up when belaying.
With this in mind, we’ve assembled 50 of the most common mistakes made by climbers everywhere—and suggested how to avoid them—in hopes of speeding your journey toward being a safer, smarter climber. In multi-pitch climbing, slack in your tie-in or an unreliable redirect piece can result in dangerous shock loads.
Do it out of habit, not just when you think the rope might not reach.
Knotting the end of the ropes is equally important when rappelling. Rope behind your leg while leading Anytime you traverse, go out an overhang, or do a step-through move, you’re in danger of putting your leg on the “uphill” side of your rope. REAL LIFE: Earlier this year, Phil Powers, executive director of the American Alpine Club and a skilled, veteran climber, fell from the top of a sport climb near Denver, where communication was likely hampered by the roar of the river and the traffic on nearby Highway 6.
When in doubt, find a safe way to escape and choose a route with better hardware.13.